Vanilla is grown in tropical areas surrounding the Equator, ranging from the Tropic of Cancer to the Tropic of Capricorn. In this years' series of Vanillas Vines, each of the major vanilla-producing regions will be explored: Tahiti, Mexico, Madagascar and Indonesia.

In this first edition for the year 2000, the tropical paradise of Tahiti is our focus. Tahiti is part of the Society Islands of French Polynesia, and is home to the vanilla orchid "Vanilla tahitensis moore." The Tahitian variety of vanilla differs from other vanilla plants grown in other regions both genetically and in flavor.

Plant experts do not know if the Tahitian variety of vanilla is a hybrid, or if it is indigenous to the island, says Nielsen-Massey's Chuck Brandel, general manager. "It's a mystery," says Chuck. It is known that the other variety of vanilla, 'Vanilla planifolia andrews', will not grow under the extremely hot conditions that tahitensis will.

"Tahitian vanilla is higher in anisic compounds and benzaldehyde compared to V. andrews," says Chuck, "and is lower in vanillin content by half." This variance in compounds gives Tahitian vanilla a pronounced almond or cherry flavor, which many chefs prefer for low heat applications such as crème brulée and low heat sauces. However, Tahitian vanilla does not hold up well under rigorous processing conditions, says Chuck, and is therefore unsuitable for many industrial applications.

Nonetheless, the unique flavor of Tahitian vanilla makes it extremely popular with chefs in the American west. Because Tahiti is a French Polynesian island,

Tahitian vanilla is also the flavoring of choice in France, where French chefs use it in whole bean form.

Tahitian vanilla extract is more expensive than other varieties because Tahitian vanilla is cured to a higher moisture content; 30-45%, compared to Madagascar Bourbon vanilla that is cured to a 15-25% moisture content. The Standard of Identity for vanilla (an FDA requirement) is that one gallon of a one-fold vanilla extract must contain 13.35 ounces of vanilla beans of 25% moisture or less. Since Tahitian vanilla beans are higher in moisture, more beans must be used to get the required amount of solids in the blend, and that increases the cost.

Nielsen-Massey Pure Vanillas can add just the right touch of mellow sweetness to compliment the hearty ingredients often used in energy or granola bars. While consumers love the convenience and quick energy these bars give them, they also demand that these products taste as good as more typical cookies and candies.

Nielsen-Massey's vanillas are made from the highest quality vanilla beans

and their unique cold-extraction process preserves the delicate flavor characteristics in the bean. When combined with health bar ingredients such as whole grains, fruits and honey, vanilla can provide a distinctive and delicious accent. Specially blended vanillas can be developed for specific applications to highlight fruit fillings or other ingredients.

Nielsen-Massey's Pure Vanilla Powder can be added to a formulation directly into the dry ingredients, improving mixing qualities. Organic Pure Vanilla is the type to use when a clean label is needed for health bars. Nielsen-Massey's Organic Vanilla is made from the highest quality ingredients using their exclusive cold extraction process.

Behind the Bean

Dave Klemann started working full time for Nielsen-Massey in 1985, overseeing production and handling financial duties. Prior to that, Dave spent summers working for the company, so he has lots of experience in the vanilla business. In 1988, he was made vice president.

Dave now handles all accounting functions for Nielsen-Massey, from accounts receivable to accounts payable and financial statements. He also manages all credit, purchasing and freight contacts. Dave is on the Alcohol Tax Committee of FEMA, the Flavor and Extracts Manufacturing Association.

Last November, Nielsen-Massey Vanillas was invited to participate in an exclusive seminar dedicated to the Regional Flavors of Mexico given by the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena, California. The seminar focused on the cuisines of Southern, Central and Gulf Coast Mexico and was attended by an audience of more than 300 chefs, students, members of the press and culinary professionals. Speakers included Diana Kennedy, noted Mexican chef, and Rick Bayless, owner of Frontera Grill and Topolabambo restaurants in Chicago, who prepared a Taste of Regional Mexico for the group.

Matt and Camilla Nielsen represented the company, offering tastings of vanillas to the chefs. Only 20 to 25 vendors were invited to participate in the Mexican Marketplace: Savoring Mexican Streetfood and More, a display of traditional Mexican foods and crafts, said Matt, which gave them a good chance to have one-on-one conversations with attendees.

It was an excellent opportunity for Matt and Cam to demonstrate the qualities of Nielsen-Massey Vanillas, particularly emphasising the flavor and functionality of Mexican vanilla.

Building brand loyalty to a product such as vanilla is important, said Matt, and meeting the instuctors and students of CIA was a wonderful teaching opportunity.

"We appreciate your great informative vanilla display in the Marketplace, and the time and dedication that went into putting it together," said Education Program Manager Cathy Jorin, in a letter to Nielsen-Massey. "These efforts greatly contributed to the success of our Worlds of Flavor Conference."

Recipe of the Month

Classic Crème Brûleé

2 cups heavy cream
4 egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp. Nielsen-Massey Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Extract, or Tahitian Vanilla Extract
8 tsp. fine raw sugar or granulated sugar for carmelizing

Preheat oven to 300°F and have a pot of hot water ready. In a saucepan over medium heat, combine cream and 1/4 cup sugar; cook, stirring, until steam rises, 4-5 minutes. In a bowl, beat egg yolks and vanilla until blended. Gradually pour hot cream into yolks, stirring constantly. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl; divide among four 7-oz. ramekins. Line a 3" deep baking pan with a clean kitchen towel, place ramekins in pan, and add hot water to fill pan halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover loosely with foil. Bake until set, 30-35 minutes, until the centers of the custards shake gently when the pan is shifted. Remove the pan from the oven and allow the ramekins to cool slightly. Remove the ramekins from the pan, cool to room temperature, then chill thoroughly 3 hours or overnight. Just before serving, sprinkle the custards with 2 tsp. sugar and carmelize the topping with a kitchen torch, or place the ramekins under a broiler, 2-3 inches from the heat source for 3-4 minutes. Watch carefully.
Adapted from a recipe by Williams-Sonoma®.

Issue 1 2000